The Internet as we know it now did not exist in the 1970s. Had it, I'm sure I would have been a teen blogger with my essays. I recently unearthed an essay I wrote about a bus trip from McAllen, Texas to Princeton, New Jersey at the start of my sophomore year at Princeton. I wrote this travelogue a month later and I can't recall who I hoped would publish it. Here it is, with bracketed commentary written 48 years later to fill in details, along with photos I took on that long, strange trip.
The self-styled king of the road shook himself from his cramped daze. St. Louis—1:30 a.m., a Sunday in September—bled into the mages of other dormant city scenes. His pillow a crown and a camera his scepter, the royal disposition had been tiring since the Arkansas breakdown 12 hours earlier.
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Memorial Stadium, Austin, for football practice. |
Sunday morning indeed; unshaven, the last shower lost in sweat and nutrition replaced by candy bars devoured in Springfield, Missouri. Four hours there; he spent his last change for a phone call to tell Kay he would be in St. Louis late. (Late? He never gave her a definite time of arrival.)
[Kay was a Mission friend attending college in Illinois.]
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Probably San Antonio. |
Time killed by scribbling notes in the back of a science-fiction novel: the men's room panhandler, a newspaper reread six times, the bus station's mute doyenne and her seizure at his feet.
Now he was deposited in a new town. Did Kay get the message? One never knows about unnamed messengers. A glance through burning eyes revealed no familiar faces. So, he thought, x-more hours added to the 30 he had survived since leaving Austin Friday evening. In which case he needed a paper, some more candy, of course a picture in a mirror or "Hi, Van! Welcome to St. Louis." or . . .
[I had visited my brother, a freshman at the University of Texas at Austin. His high-rise dorm, Jester, stunned me with its modernity, a contrast to the spare 19th century accommodations of Princeton's dorms.]
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Waiting for bus repairs, Rogers, Arkansas Sept. 6 |
He could have cried on her neck. Instead, he smiled. After all, he was touching base again.
That summer I could never fully explain, even to myself, why I wanted to take the bus from South Texas to central New Jersey. [I had spent the summer as a reporter-photographer of my hometown paper, the Upper Valley Progress. That summer marked the last time I ever lived in Mission.] Sitting in the McAllen, Texas, terminal at midnight, the only certainties were the ticket, the two weeks before classes began, a solitary personality suitable for bus travel and an understanding mother willing to lug trunks to the nearest UPS office. I nursed no urge to discover America à la Peter Fonda and Dennis Hopper, at least not consciously. The airlines would be faster, the dubious ones said—but after a half-dozen flights east, the blue womb bored me. The speed and convenience were equaled only by the unreality and emotional jaggedness of the medium.
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Self-portrait in Rogers, Arkansas, Sept. 6 |
The sense of transformation was lost in the jump from one corner of the country to another. The endpoints of departure and arrival remained abrupt and unconnected. While hostesses proffered sodas, the fresh memories of home always struggled with plans for the academic months, with my mind as the battleground. In the efficient yet frosty air journeys I could never grasp the ripping force of what was happening.
Which should not be a surprise, because nothing was happening. I became the animation that linked two sets of circumstances, nothing if not the Nietzschean rope between, pardon the metaphorical simplification, plant and phantom.
Soon after leaving McAllen, this traveler sensed a change in the tempo of time. Reading was impossible and talk with strangers unappealing. How should one fill those enormous spaces of time between stopovers in Austin and Illinois before the final destination? The disruption of my normal day-night cycle suggested the need for a new mental process. Initially I pondered the recent. Summer incidents, though, quickly staled in the darkness. So the psychic construction began somewhere near Falfurrias. The end product, if ever there was one, did not hinge on analysis or the picky little manipulations that characterize the civil creature.
Instead, I observed, felt experienced the sensation of travel. It was a new approach for one accustomed to constant thought. In my typical definition of usefulness, much of the trip was "wasted." I learned to look beneath the appearance of inaction and thus view myself as a personality and body in flux, a more dynamic notion that that of an intellect in suspended animation. I joined the other people traveling by bus—and felt a rare oneness with them. The endless miles smoothed the transition between home and college with empty strips of time that demanded no artificial calendar slots. The future could develop at its own leisure, rather than be thrust into consciousness before the vacation lost its intensity.
Twenty-four hours before St. Louis, during a Dallas layover, I was first touched by the pulse of the slow travel, which shapes fascinating patterns from the utterly mundane.
[The trip from Dallas to St. Louis took even longer than expected after the bus broke down in Rogers, Arkansas. On the upside, the bus passed through Muskogee, Oklahoma, which thrilled me because I knew all about the town thanks to Merle Haggard classic 1969 song "Okie From Muskogee."]
I felt tired,
rumpled. A hodge-podge of personal belongings surrounded my seat, never leaving
my sight, rarely my touch. The shifting juncture of different fates and lives
came to exhilarate There the strangers waited and ignored each other, all
unknowns somehow bound to each other by the shared movement.
That bind, tenuous and universal, affects me more than the sterile hustle of any airport.
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2 a.m., Sept. 8, Columbus, Ohio, still awake. |
Air travel always unfolded like a row of dominos—get on the plane, fly, arrive, change, repeat, grab luggage and get to campus. Very nice, rather dull. I will admit that the unexpected at 30,000 feet can be at least disturbing, occasionally fatal. Given my light attitude, I found bus lapses amusing and enlightening. I studied the streets of Rogers, Arkansas, from the main intersection and felt quite at ease. I knew my destination even if I lacked information as to my precise location and time of arrival.
In Pittsburgh, I discovered that schedules are written by people who can err. Sorry, the man said (remarkably cheerful at 6 a.m.), no morning buses to Philadelphia. So it took me another three hours to filter through New York City. Stoicism ruled when three was added to the 60 preceding it.
Stopovers with friends and relatives provided more than decent food and a soft bed. For me, they became touchstone to stability and the past. Thus, the presence of the familiar, even in a vague form, adds special meaning to arrivals and departures. The sight of Kay, a true deus ex machina, revived thoughts of ourselves as two different people years before.
But a more haunting and symbolic familiarity is preserved on the first picture I took during the trip. I will never even know their names. My own family left the station long before the bus did. I did find surrogates to watch the vehicle pull away, pull me away. The picture of them loses some natural drama through the distance between that knot of working-class Chicanos and the camera. Yet their expressions mirror their thoughts, however deeply they submerge the details.
Sullen stares toward the bus door mark the faces of the old man and his wife; they look lost, as if someone precious was leaving again, lost into the night. The younger woman, -perhaps their daughter, seems almost wistful—does she remember something about the traveler? Departures always do that. Their emotions I find recognizable, maybe because I have often caused them. For every
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The journey begins: Midnight in McAllen, Texas |
[The essay ends at this point; it must be missing pages. This final section describing the McAllen bus station comes at the very beginning of the journey. I finally arrived in Princeton, where I lived in a six-man suite in the 1938 Dorm, now demolished.]